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Finishing

Polishing acrylic: what each method does to the edge and the face

Polishing is the operation that separates a fabricated part from a manufactured one. It is also the operation most often described with a word that means different things to different shops.

~1,700 words · 9 min read · Updated 2026-11-10

"Polished" on a drawing can mean a flame pass that takes seconds or a diamond sequence that takes an hour. The two look completely different and the price difference is large, so the word by itself is not a specification.

The methods

Polishing methods for acrylic
MethodResultTimeWhere it belongs
Flame polishingGlossy, slightly rounded, hazy through the thicknessSeconds per metreHigh-volume parts where the edge is not examined closely
Machine buffingGlossy face or edge, with some risk of burningMinutesFace polishing after scratch removal, simple edges
Diamond edge polishingWater-clear, sharp, light-transmittingLong, a skilled hand operationDisplay, awards, vitrines, premium fixtures
Hand polishing (grit sequence)Good on small areas, varies by operatorSlowLocal repair, unusual geometry
Vapour polishingNear-optical across the whole partBatch process, needs equipmentOptical and medical parts, not general fabrication

Flame polishing

A hydrogen-oxygen flame is passed along the edge. The surface melts briefly and flows, then cools glossy. It is fast and it produces a good-looking edge on a cheap part.

Its limits matter: the edge is rounded, so two flame-polished parts do not meet with a crisp line; the flame introduces stress, which matters if the part will be bonded or cleaned with solvent; and it does not produce a clear edge, only a glossy one. Light shone into a flame-polished edge dies within a few centimetres.

Diamond edge polishing

The edge is machined flat and square, then worked through a sequence of abrasive papers and diamond compounds on a felt or cotton wheel until it is optically clear. On a thick edge the result is a pane that glows along its length when lit, which is the effect most display work depends on.

It is slow, skilled work and it is priced per metre of edge. On a thin flat panel it can cost more than the material and the cutting combined, which is why the specification should ask for it only where it is seen.

Face polishing

Face polishing is usually repair work: removing a scratch, a machining mark or a haze over an area. The sequence is the same as edge polishing but the risk is different. A face is large and flat, and a machine polisher held in one place generates enough heat to dish the surface.

On a visible face, polish a small area by hand and check under raking light before widening. A patch polished to a different level shows as a lens.

How to check a polished finish

  1. Raking light. Hold the part so light skims the surface at a shallow angle. Scratches, orange peel and polishing marks appear that are invisible under direct light.
  2. Look through the edge at a dark background. A diamond-polished edge is clear; a flame-polished edge is hazy.
  3. Shine a light into the edge. On a polished edge the light travels far along the panel; on a flame-polished one it dies quickly.
  4. Check the corners. Flame polishing rounds them; diamond polishing keeps them sharp.
  5. Compare with the approved sample. This is the only check that survives a change of operator or supplier.

A photograph of an accepted finish, kept with the purchase order, resolves most finish disputes. Adjectives do not survive a change of shift; a sample does.

Polishing after machining

Any hole, slot or engraving in a polished face leaves a matte area that must be re-polished if it is visible. This is why a design with many holes in a visible face costs more than one with few, and why we ask which faces are seen before quoting.

The sequence is machine, anneal, polish. Polishing before annealing means the oven may dull the finish and the part will need polishing again.

What polishing cannot fix

  • Crazing, which is subsurface damage rather than a surface mark.
  • A crack. Polishing the area around a crack does not restore strength.
  • A gouge deeper than about 0.3 mm, where removing it leaves a visible dish.
  • A milky bend, which is stress crazing from the forming operation.
  • A yellowed or degraded face from UV exposure, where the damage is through the material.

Questions this article answers

Substantially, and for many parts it is the right choice. It is not a substitute where the edge is viewed closely or where the part will be bonded, because it rounds the edge and introduces stress.

Yes, on the outer faces and edges. Polishing near a bond line risks opening the joint, so the assembly is usually polished before the final bond, or the bond is positioned away from the polished edges.

Marks are usually from skipping a grit in the sequence. Go back one step and work through again in the opposite direction, then polish. On a face, work the whole area rather than the spot, or the patch will show.

Only marginally, a few hundredths of a millimetre. On a part with a tight dimension to a polished edge, the polish is normally applied before the final measurement, or the dimension is taken from an unpolished reference.

Yes, on the edge, with a diamond polish. A diamond-polished cast acrylic edge is visually indistinguishable from glass at normal viewing distance and much lighter and safer.

What each finish costs, and how edge length drives it

Polishing is priced by the metre of edge, not by the part, which is why two brackets of the same size can differ threefold in finishing cost. A 200 × 150 mm bracket has 700 mm of edge; the same bracket with a 60 mm return has 820 mm, and if it is a tray with an internal cut-out it can easily carry 1.5 m. The finishing line on a quotation is therefore a measure of edge length, and it is worth counting before you compare suppliers.

Indicative cost and effect per metre of edge, 8 mm cast sheet
FinishRelative costTime per metreWhat it looks likeBest use
As-routed1×<1 min Matte tool marks, slight edge chippingHidden edges, parts that get bonded
Sand and scotch-brite1.6×1–2 min Uniform satin, no tool marksWhere a matte edge is the design intent
Diamond edge polish3×3–5 min Clear, mirror-bright, sharp reflectionRetail, cosmetic, visible edges
Flame polish2×1–2 min Glossy but slightly wavy, rounded cornerHigh volume, forgiving geometry
Face polish8–15×15–30 min/m² Removes shallow scratches across the faceRepair, or an optical surface

The cost step between diamond-polished and flame-polished is where most projects should stop and ask what the edge is for. A flame-polished edge on 8 mm sheet reads as glossy from a metre away and shows a slight ripple from 200 mm; a diamond-polished edge reads the same at any distance. If the part is a shelf edge behind glass, flame is the value choice. If it is a jewellery riser that a customer picks up, diamond is the only one that survives close inspection.

Two cost traps. Polishing before bonding doubles the work, because the joint has to be polished again after assembly — polishes done in the flat are wasted at the seam. And polishing a part with drilled holes adds hand work per hole, so a panel with forty 4 mm holes can cost more to finish than a much larger plain panel. Both are visible in a quote as a finishing line that does not match the edge length, which is usually the first thing worth querying.

Send a sample of the finish you want

A photo of an accepted part plus which edges are seen is the specification. We will match it and quote the minimum polishing that gets there.

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